This is a continuation of part one, found here.
Okay, where we last left off I had the unfinished pagoda separated parts out from sprues, cleaned and wiped with a cheese cloth (aka tack cloth.) This grabs all the soot from the laser cutter and sawdust from sanding parts, which keeps the painting clean.
| I marked up the instructions with all my colors |
| Beware. Be read. Be ready. |
Pro tip, if you are spray painting a bunch of stuff and the day is sunny but low humidity, you can put your painted parts in a dry cardboard box and it acts like an oven to speed up total curing. So, spray paint, once dry to touch, throw that stuff in a sunny box and let it do it's thang. Keeps grit off the dry-down too.
I kept the colors on this simple. 3 colors plus weathering at the end (excepting the roof, which was a grey I had laying around.) I used Army Painter colors Army Green, Leather Brown and Necrotic flesh spray with matching brush on paints (which are extremely close matches.) In the end, I used 1.5 cans of spray primer and 1 can of each color, more-or-less.
I used Mod Podge Matte finish to glue everything together, except for the base, which I used Gorilla Glue for extra bond strength. That beautiful base will bear a bit of weight so it is smart to used a stronger glue for that. All parts sprayed together, I proceeded to fit pieces together and glue. Note that with the tabs, it helps to round off the edges to make fitting easier.
| Laying up the parts, facade added as well... painting them separately makes for a clean finish. |
| Roof parts primed black then sponge/dapple painted with grays. |
Up next, modifying the doors so they move, finishing details, lights, final assembly and glamour shots!
-Yeti
3 comments:
That's a big footprint for Bushido!
Yup! As said later, you could simply keep the fight on the first floor to avoid changing the game too much
I enjoyed reading thiis
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